Glasses are making a comeback

Until recently, a pair of glasses was a big purchase. It probably wasn’t that long ago that you tried-on dozens of frames in your optometrist’s office, only to realize that your favorite pair carried a price tag upwards of $300. The price may or may not have included the lenses. You might have coughed up the money, especially if you needed to justify your purchase of vision insurance. Or you may have taken your prescription to Walmart or Target, hoping to find cheaper options. Still, you may have just gone with contact lenses, which were less of an investment.

The cost of the constituent materials of glasses (acetate, metal, glass, etc.) seem miniscule in comparison to the price of the finished product. So, why were glasses so expensive? It is a question that has long eluded optical consumers.

The primary reason for the steep cost of eyewear is that a single company, Luxottica, historically controlled much of the optical market. Luxottica makes white label glasses, which are sold under other names. The names include licensed and designer brands, such as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and Oakley, as well as lesser-known or store brands. So, for many decades, brand competition was merely a facade. Luxottica also runs many retail optometry centers, like EyeMed Vision Care, LensCrafters, Pearle Vision, Sears Optical, Sunglass Hut and Target Optical, essentially giving them dominance over the glasses supply chain. As if Luxottica doesn’t have its hands in enough jars, they own the second largest vision insurance company in the U.S., EyeMed.

But everything changed when Warby Parker hit the scene in 2010. They offered $100 specs and home-try-ons (shipped for free). It appeared too good to be true. I ordered and sent back dozens of frames after posting pictures of me trying them on online, attempting to crowd-source a consensus on which frames best suited my face. They were sturdy and comfortable. They were stylish. It didn’t feel like thrift. Finally, real competition had arrived!

Now, companies like Zenni and EyeBuyDirect are even undercutting Warby Parker, offering trendy frames with base models starting at $15. Extras like blue light blocking, bifocals, and other lens upgrades cost more. But, even with all the bells and whistles, most pairs still run well under $100. Unlike Warby, these competitors don’t offer mail-order try-on. But they do have augmented reality apps that allow a user to upload a photo and try on glasses virtually*.

It never seemed fair to penalize people with bad eyesight. But now the visually-imperfect may have the upper hand. The new affordability of glasses not only makes them more accessible; it transforms their function from that of a corrective device to a fashion accessory.

When glasses were an investment, it made sense to buy a single pair that would go with every outfit and be suitable for every occasion. This led to safe purchasing decisions (read: boring frames). With cheaper eyewear, people may afford multiple pairs. One may build a collection of frames of different colors, thicknesses, or shapes. Now, the only major setback to a killer optical trove is the possibility of a prescription change. We can hope that some vendors will start selling replacement lenses. But, still, if a shopper is very cost-conscious, the risk is minimized.

Affordable optical is ushering in a glasses renaissance. As collections build, expect to see more sartorially adventurous specs! The 2020’s promise to live up to their name.

*Ambr, Eyebobs, Coastal, and Felix Gray also offer eyewear for cheap.

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